Nomos Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray
The new simpler, more symmetrical, and in this version, darker Nomos Metro.
There isn't much at Topper that is more popular, or more pre-ordered, than the Nomos Metro models. Last year, Nomos came out with the "Metro" model of the Metro collection. The manual wind watch featured a 37mm case with a power reserve indicator. This year, four new Metro model have been released. There are two "neomatik models" which are 35mm automatics that are 8mm thick, as well as, two larger (38mm) manual wind models called the Metro 38 Datum. This post will look at the dark gray version of the Metro 38 Datum fittingly called the Urban Gray.
To use a word to describe how the 2014 Metro was different from the rest of the Nomos collection it would be "circles". The watch features circular hour markers, minute markers, power reserve indicators, and round wire lugs. That description is equally fitting to the Metro 38 Datum models. The only rectangular treatment on the watch remains the date aperture.
However, there are several points of distinction between the original Metro and the Metro Datum. Overall the presentation is a little bit larger with both the case and strap size increasing by one mm. The watch design is also more symmetrical. Instead of featuring dial text at nine o'clock and a slightly offset power reserve indicator to balance it out, the removal of the power reserve indicator allows for perfectly centered dial text below the twelve o'clock marker. These changes, along with the slightly wider diameter, make the watch feel more minimalistic. Though 1 mm of case diameter doesn't seem like it would be much of a difference, it wears considerably larger than the original Metro.
A look at the original 2014 release "Metro" of the Metro collection.
Mechanically, like the original Metro, the Metro 38 Datum features the "Swing System" which is the Nomos manufactured balance complete (hairspring, balance wheel, and pallet fork). Nomos estimates that the inclusion of the Swing System jumps the percentage of in-house manufacturing from 83% to 95%. The Metro 38 Datum is one of only a handful of manual wind models now featuring the Swing System, another is the Orion Datum.
We are very excited for the arrival in late November/early December of the Tangente Topper 75, It will be the first manual-wind movement with the "Alpha" calibre, and will also feature the aforementioned Swing System.
The Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 for Topper Fine Jewelers 75th Anniversary will be the first non date, manual-wind movement with the "Swing System".
While the Metro 38 Datum features the same color scheme of the original Metro, the Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray is a bit more austere, featuring only silver and gray. Below are photos of the Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray which retails at $3,480.
The central dial text "Nomos Glashutte" of the Nomos Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray.
The round wire lugs are now 19mm (vs. 18mm on the Metro) giving the watch more presence.
A look at the crown and cylindrical case of the Nomos Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray.
The caseback of the Nomos Metro 38 Datum Urban Gray and its DUW 4101 movement featuring the Swing System. FYI, "DUW" stands for NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke.
A good look at the Swing System of the DUW 4101 movement.The Topper Blog consists mainly of original writing by Rob & Russ Caplan with occasional special contributions and interviews. All photography in the blog is taken at Topper Fine Jewelers , or on location unless otherwise indicated in the photo captions.